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This should be self evident for most of you, be that as it may – I need to know which dynamo terminal is D and which is F.

On the back of the dynamo, there is a terminal with a large spade connector and one with a small spade connector.  One is the F terminal, the other is the D terminal.  Crossing them us is a recipe for Hillman flambé.

This is also important to know, because (if I understand correctly), I need to make some sparks from the positive (hot) wire to the “F” terminal to polarize the generator to do a negative ground conversion.  This will also tell me which gauge wire to use for which.

For those of you who will scold me for doing a rewire without changing to a one-wire alternator, may I excuse myself on the grounds of insufficient funds.

– Bob
– ’59 Husky
– Sacramento, California

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Do you want to merely reverse the polarity of the car from positive-earth to negative-earth?

If so, this is how I did it on a 1963 Mk1 Hillman Imp (with a generator/dynamo) some years ago:–

1) Switch terminal wiring to the battery
2) Temporarily remove fan belt
3) Remove regulator cover & push-to-close cut-out relay.  Hold it in for .... say ..... 30 seconds.

The generator will slowly turn (about 60 rpm).

Then ... The job is done!  Nothing else needs changing or replacing, except for any positive-earth car radio; If you could find one.

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Exactly right except the cut out relay will not release on its own.  You need to flick it up with a screwdriver or momentarilly disconect a battery connection.

The other more difficult way is to disonnect F and D from all vehicle wiring and join together with a clip lead. Applying power from battery in the desired polarity will have the same effect.
Craig's system is easier and less prone to disaster.

Having repolarised the generator in this way it is a good idea to replace the fanbelt and run for a few minutes so it can get used to it's new orientation :–))
The polarisation is set by the residual magnetism in the generator pole pieces after disconnection.

I have done this lots of times.  It is interesting to do after the owner has been quoted some enormous amount for the job by a suitably qualified Auto electrician.

Keith
55 Californian

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D should be the big one "dynamo", and F the little one "field."  To polarize, momentarily cross these two.
Also, switch the coil – the distributor is always ground, whichever way it's grounded.  Practically everything else doesn't care.

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There are no wires hooked up to the charging system right now.  I'm starting from scratch (I marked everything else, but not this).  Which wire, D or F, is the "big" one?

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D (dynamo) is the main output (big one)
F (field) is the excitation field winding (low current).

Ron

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"D" is the big wire and goes from the big connector on the generator to the "D" connection on the regulator.  The "F" wire is the little wire and goes from the little connector on the generator to the "F" connector on the regulator. That is all that there is to it!  P.S. make sure the engine is connected to the battery ground!

Jan

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Thanks!

So those letter are not just arbitrary.  Cool.

What do the letters A, A1 and E represent on control boxes?

– Bob

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D is big one for "dynamo" is generator output.
F is little on for "field" which excites the generator.
Both connect to the regulator box at the marked locations, F & D of course.
In this case to polarise your generator for negative earth just connect these two together and apply plus 12volts after removing fanbelt.  Generator should "motor" if it is OK.  You can do it on the bench by just applying the correct voltage and polarity to the generator.  The currents are not large so electrical clip leads can be used for the connections, don't forget the earth if doing it on the bench.
The generator will motor in the same direction as it would charge :–))
Generators are a cheap and easy to fix system usually brushes and bearings.  The regulator is simply a no voltage cut out and a mechanical regulator that operates to limit over current or over voltage.  The regulator is "digital" in the sense that it is either high or low charge.  The relays buzzing to give an average charge rate between these limits.  With simple directions and a cheap modern digital multimeter any competent handyman (person :–)  can set up a regulator box.  Easier than checking out an alternator set up.
The only down side of a generator is low charge rate at low revs.
Despite all my noises about engine swaps I still use one on my Californian.
It ain't broke so why fix it.

Keith
55 Californian

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E is earth, A is main power (starter solenoid hot terminal) and ammeter if fitted;  A1 is ignition switch.

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Then surely it's not A1 (number) but AI (for Ignition)....

Vic

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"A"=acessories and "E"=earth (or ground to us Americans)

Jan

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Hi Bob

The questions just get better. :–)
Had to look this one up.

A feeds the battery charging circuit
A1 feeds lighting and ignition circuits.

These are on the series winding in the regulator and drop the generator output if there is excessive current draw off due to very flat battery.  If you have a Rootes sevice manual it has a diagram of the regulator.  This probably is Greek to a non electrical person.
However it really is very simple, like most things Hillman :–))
Battery is connected to terminal A, this is direct from battery usually connects to starter solenoid battery side.  This is disconnected from the generator by the open cut out contacts.
On starting the engine the generator starts making output, voltage appears on terninal D.  This finds its way to the field teminal F by way of the regulator contacts which are closed so we will have full charge.  This is why we need to have the generator correctly polariased as the polarity is determined by the residual magnetism left in the body of the generator. 
This is why some generators that have not been used for a long time fail to operate, no residual magnetism = no output voltage.  As the engine speed is increases more voltage appears on D.  The shunt (Voltage)coils will operate when the voltage exceeds about 16volts.  However at around 13 volts the cut out will close and the generator voltage will be loaded by the battery.  As current is used to charge the battery and to run headlights etc current flows through the series coils of the regulator to A and A1, if currents larger than the safe output of the generator are taken the output will be limited by the regulator contacts opening and lowering the charge current.
This is why the heavy current accessories like headlights are connected to A1 as if the current comes from the battery that is into A and out on A1 it cancels the effect on the regulator and allows the generator to still deliver full output to top up the battery.
An AMP meter when fitted goes between the battery and terminal A monitoring the current in or out of the battery.

Consider this as first level initiation into the mysteries of that Lord Lucas bloke.

Keith
55 Californian

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Keith

When you come to Sacramento, I am like totally buying you a beer.

– Bob

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Also my opinion.  "Dynamos" are not that bad as some "individuals" says.  Sometimes you got the impression the generator are only able to produce electricity to power the ignition and if you use the headlights and windscreen wipers you will immediately drain the battery.  This is an exaggeration.  I also have generators in 3 of my cars and as long as they give electricity to charge the battery when I driving the car with headlights, wipers and the heater fan on I am satisfied.
I will however replace them with AC when they are worn out. (if it ever happens)

Kristian J